Using a wide spatula, transfer the flatbread(s) to a cutting board. This will anywhere take from 10 to 15 minutes. The edge of the crust should be crisp and firm when tested with a fingertip or fork. Bake until the edge of the crust is golden brown and the onions are beginning to turn golden. If not, place the baking sheet directly on the lower rack of the oven. If using a pizza stone, slide 1 large or 2 small flat breads onto it. Sprinkle the cheese, onions, thyme, salt, pepper and pancetta (if using) evenly over the tops and then drizzle with the remaining tablespoon olive oil. Brush the dough rounds or rectangles with about 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.

To make the topping, trim off the roots from the spring onions, then chop all of the white bulb and half of the greens of each onion. Transfer to the rice flour-covered baking sheet(s). Using a floured rolling pin, roll out each portion into a round or rectangle no more than 1/4 inch thick. Divide the dough into two or four equal portions. Punch down the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Lightly dust 1 or 2 large rimless baking sheets with the rice flour, which helps the flatbreads to slide easily. If you have a convection setting on your oven, use it. If you are using a pizza stone, place it on the lower rack of the oven and preheat the oven to 500 degrees F. Cover the bowl with a damp cloth, place it in a warm, draft-free area, and let the dough rise until double in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Oil a large bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, add the dough ball to the bowl, and turn the ball to coat it evenly with the oil. Gather the dough into a ball, transfer to a floured work surface, and knead until smooth and elastic, about 7 minutes. The dough should be neither too sticky nor too dry. Pulse just until the mixture comes together in a soft ball of dough, adding more flour, a little at a time, if the mixture seems too wet. In a food processor, combine the yeast mixture, salt, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and about 2 1/2 cups of the all-purpose flour. To make the dough, in a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water, add the sugar, and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. They add their own delicate flavor and vibrant color.

The spring onions, with their plump bulbs and tender greens, are carried by numerous market vendors. You can vary the topping with the seasons, and the garnished flatbreads can be served as an appetizer, a bread accompaniment, or even a main dish. Easy and versatile, this simple dough recipe can be rolled or pulled into rectangles, rounds, or whatever shape you like.

Feta flat bread